Try this handy app to find the best way to deal with your spill.

It is preferred that clients pre-vacuum to remove larger, loose debris before I arrive. However I will always pre-vacuum every job using my high end HEPA filtered upright vacuum cleaner and do all the edges with my edging tool.

This depends on a number of factors including the type of fibre and construction, the level of soiling, etc. When I inspect your carpet I will be able to advise which method I would recommend to achieve the best result for you.

Australian Standards are published documents setting out specifications and procedures designed to ensure products, services and systems are safe, reliable and consistently perform the way they are intended to. A set of standards for carpet cleaning – now referred to as the AS3733 standards – were established in 1995 after consultation with representatives from the carpet manufacturing industry, the carpet cleaning industry, and the federal government. This is a list of the minimum requirements to meet the standards. I deliver a service that exceeds the requirements of AS3733.

It can take 2-8 hours depending cleaning process, the weather, season, carpet pile, etc. For example, if your wool carpet is cleaned in the middle of winter it will take longer to dry.

With my specialist knowledge, training and experience most staining usually comes out with our normal stain removal processes… if it’s untouched by the customer.

Stains that aren’t removed fall into the category of advanced stain removal. These can include substances such as bleach, food colourings, softdrink, old urine stains and some inks/dyes. In these instances, there is nothing that can be cleaned out – the effect they have on the carpet fibre is similar to an iron burn. However I do also provide a highly advanced and sophisticated stain removal/recolouring option than can correct 95% of staining commonly untouched by normal cleaning.

As with all spills, blot up the excess working from the outside in with an absorbent cloth. You can use soda water to dilute it. Don’t use vinegar! It’s normally a fairly easy fix for me but like any stain it depends on what the customer has used to try and remove it prior to calling me. So unless you know what you’re doing, it’s best to leave it to the professionals.

You can hire a DIY machine but…

• Do you understand the chemistry of both the cleaning products you’re using and the fibres you are dealing with?
• Do you understand the dyes that have been used and how they can be destabilised?
• Do you know if the machine you are using has been adequately serviced?
• Do you know whether you are extracting the necessary amount of moisture and soil?
• Do you know whether or not your cleaning agents will cause re-soiling?
• Do you believe that a small, domestic rated machine will outperform an independently powered, high performance truck-mounted machine like mine?

Your flooring is a big investment. Many things can and do go wrong when people attempt this work themselves without the knowledge and experience an industry professional like myself offers. So why run the risk of thousands of dollars in replacement costs, for the sake of saving a few extra dollars, to get the job done right?

This depends on the soiling and the type of fabric. Once I have inspected your upholstery I will be able to give you the right advice as to which method, steam cleaning or encapsulation (low moisture) cleaning, will give the best result for your situation.

Yes. The charge is usually quoted per seat. If a price estimate is needed prior to booking the job, I will ask the client to send me a photograph of the upholstery to be cleaned so I can get an idea of the size, type of fibre and style. For example, the price would vary depending whether they are cushions that turn over vs cushions that don’t turn over. Once I have a bit more information about the job I can give an estimate over the phone.

I can just spot clean the affected seat, however after it’s cleaned it might look different to the rest of the upholstery as the lounge is probably getting soiled over time – so it may be worth having it all cleaned at the same time.

Yes, I do quite a bit of commercial work including cleaning office chairs, lounges, sofas and couches in reception areas and offices; restaurants, cafés and bars; medical practices; hotels; retirement villages, etc.

Yes, I clean the majority. Some natural stone would have to be inspected first, but most can be cleaned.

Yes, I can. I’m often asked to do a thorough, heavy duty clean of shower walls too when I come to clean a tiled bathroom floor.

Yes! I have the right chemicals, cleaning equipment and indepth training to clean your tiles and grout thoroughly.

Grout is highly porous so it attracts grease, grime and contaminants – like the residue from cleaning solutions or soap scum in the bathroom and laundry. And every time you clean your floor in the traditional way it washes dirty water into your grout. Our tile and grout cleaning process agitates the right cleaning agent for your floor, deep into the fine cracks and crevices, and this is then extracted under high pressure and temperature using our truck mounted machine.